Bonjour mes amis,
I know...no news from me, nor Gail, for quite a while. What do they say....no news is good news?! a combination of factors has made it difficult to keep you updated...being largely outside of cities where internet service is not as readily available, and being quite busy, too busy to stop and write!
Anyways, our trip is rapidly coming to an end. We are flying home this Saturday, and we are all excited. the kids especially have been looking forward to sleep in their own bed! I too am looking forward to not having to share small, two double bed rooms with 3 other people!
the last 6 weeks in France and Italy have been very different than our time in Latin America. We rented a car, and rented 4 different farm houses in southern france--one in Provence near Avignon, one on the Meditarean coast near Marseilles, one en Dordogne, and one near Nice. the gites were great because we were not moving around so much, and we could finally cook our own meals. Yes, we missed that luxury--big time! It was nice to not feel the obligation to get up and do something, see something etc. the boys started reading a lot more; sometimes spending a whole day reading, and sometimes rereqding, Harry Potter! Dylan stqrted to take a lot of enjoyment writing in his journal! surprising, yes; I know! I think he got a lot of pleasure reflecting back on earlier parts of the trip. Being forced to write about it...forced in the sense that it was our carrot to later take him to Euro Disney in Paris...forced him to try and remember details, and the pleasure lay in the details.
For my part, I really enjoyed going back to places in Southern France that I had first discovered in my early tzenties when I spend a year studying in Toulouse. It was fun to see the same places through different; hopefully wiser; eyes, and being able to share the experiences with Gail and the boys. Little things, like living in a traditional French farm house, with the huge windows; tall ceiling, shutters etc all left a mark on me. I want to come back again, and again!
We are in Paris at the moment, after spending last week in Italy. the highlight in Italy was hiking in Cinque Terre..;spelling? just south of Genoa. In Paris,, the highlights have been renting the cities municipal bicycles....an environmental initiative to get Parisiens out of their cars; and using thousands of bikes placed aroung the city to travel on..;to disover Paris on two wheels. We went to the tour Eiffel, and the Louvre, and walked around the Maris, and went to Euro Disney, and walked, and walked....until we hqve got so tired that we want to get on the plane, and come home.
It has been a reat trip, but it is time to savour that sweeeeeeeeeet feeling of coming home! e llok forward to seeing you soon.
Best wishes,
Mike
ps excuse the typos;;;I have been warned that i have to sent this now, or i will be cut off!
Monday, June 16, 2008
Monday, June 2, 2008
This week has found us exploring the beautiful city of Nice...
This week has found us exploring the beautiful city of Nice, strolling the 8km promenade along the beach and discovering so many interesting shops, restaurants and heritage cites in the old town, I was "forced" by my kids to take my "life into my hands" on rollerblades one afternoon with the kids and managed to avoid a faceplant on the pavement, dodged numerous bikes , strollers and pedestrians, although the speed bump was a scary moment, We even hit the movies-- a fitting movie--Into the Wild. The movie showed an exteme escape from a mundane life but it still instilled our appreciation for taking some risk, stepping out of routines, and seeing beyond our neighbourhoods, The kids really reflected upon the many travellers we have met along our journey and recognized that people travel for a wide variety of reasons and people grow in many ways because of their travels. They also thought that Alex from Into the Wild was too "far out there" in his adventurous , foolhardy spirit.The kids also wore themselves out at an adventure ropes course for a day. They were drenched in sweat with many scrapes, bruises and tired muscles yet grinning ear to ear when we picked them up after the 5 hour adventure.
We have even dodged some rain storms to get us climatized to the lovely Vancouver weather we have missed. We are kown as the crazy Canadians who swim laps most mornings in the freezing cold unheated pools we have had. The real reason that we can bear the elements is the extra layers of insulation we have from all the gelato, chocolate croissants and the wine! We are getting used to the typically French idiocyncracies, ie, 130 km per hour on the auto routes and make sure you have lots of euro coins ready for all the tolls, countless roundabouts which is nice when you aren't sure which way to turn---you just go around as many times as you need to figure it out; most people smoke but luckily no longer in restaurantst; most have small dogs that are welcome everywhere and definitely welcome to leave their marks whereever it drops---no walking barefoot; some of the best parts are the great coffee, wine, and the way the French shut down everything except the retaurants from 12 to 3 to savour a midday meal. They do not believe on eating on the run. Food is to be enjoyed and it is very important that meals are shared with family and friends. There are virtually no overwight French people either so maybe taking time with very good food at set meal time and eliminating junk food has merit. It is also very rare to buy takeout coffee so no takeout garbage littering the streets. We have also been so impressed with all the help we have been given to find routes, accom, food etc.
We left Nice and headed along the Ligurian coast of Italy, We settled into nice little beach town of Loano. Much better gelato, terrific pasta and we love the animated Italan conversations, It is a national holiday this weekend so it was wonderful hanging out with the locals and using our best sign language to communicate----not too much english in this town but for once even Mike doesn't know the language. We were heading to Turino but fierce storms and slides have dictated a new route---not sure where. Hope the school year is winding down well and you have some good summer plans to keep you going. Gail
Thursday, May 22, 2008
Well, time seems to be flying...
Well, time seems to be flying as we continue to explore the Dordogne , Provence , and the Cotes d Azure of France. We will have stayed in gites for 4 weeks in beautiful places close enough to the historical tourist sites but far enough away that we don't have to be stressed out driving, with quiet, relaxing places to sleep, and small villages nearby to explore and buy our groceries. We are finishing our week near Marseilles. We are a few steps from the bright blue Mediterranian----disappointed that it is a very cool 17 degrees but so beautiful. There is a hking trail along the calanques (fiords) all the 42 km to Marseilles---we did a 3 hour hike which was superb. Kids are kind of home bodies some days and have taken a couple days to lounge around, swim, read or just play cards and explore the beach. Mike and I , regretfully left them behind (celebrated?) on our own excursions to Avignon, hiking through the roman arena, exploring the markets etc; and then yesterday we took the train to Marseilles for the day. Today we drove to Arles and will be exploring the salt flats in Camargue with a large flamingo, wild horse and boar population. Tonite is the new Indiana Jones movie in french.
A highlight for the kids this week was of course Marineland in Antibes. Killer whales, dolphins etc brought them back to their love of the Galapagos. I always wonder about the educational value versus the removal of these magnificent creatures from their habitat.
The Cannes film fest and the Nice Grand Prix is on now so we were lucky to get a place for next week near Nice. We will be exploring the Grand Canyon of France -- the Canyon du Verdun, and driving into the mountains too.
For the first time on our trip we have no firm plans for the first week of June. We are heading to Italy along the Italian riviera and then into the Italian Alps--hopefully we will find some English speakers because Mike cannot bail us out there. Flight home has been booked ----- June 14th is the end of our adventures abroad but never the end of adventuring.... Gail
Sunday, May 11, 2008
Perpignon, then Narbonne to pick up our Volkswagon Passat hatchback, deisel,,,thank goodness with the price of gas $1.65 for gas and $1.32 for deisel. We then spent three nights in a hostel inside the castle of Carcasonne. It was a very basic accom but we could cook our own meals and there were three different school groups from France and Spain staying there for the kids to interact with. They are trying out more and more of their french as we travel and they understand a lot of what they hear in the markets, cafes; hostels etc.It was great exploring the castle with its medeival feel, drawbridge, cemetary and all the innovations to repel all attackers; We visited the museum of torture, ---- Dylan was our tour guide describing each form of torture which was realistically displayed and used during the Inquisition____ he remembered the models from his SS 8 and the real torture devices were as fascinating as they were horrific. We all had the same question --- who could inflict those tortures to another human being! We cycled one day down the canal and beside all the locks used by the river boats------ Justin was not impressed with a 3 hour bike ride to celebrate his 12th birthday----again he picked the wrong parents ! We did cook lasagna and choc cake so he went to bed less miffed. Next stop was Toulousse where Mike studied for one year at the U of Toulousse 30 years ago. Such a beautiful big city. Very pedestrian friendly, and bike rentals for 1 euro for the day! Bottle of wine, a baguette, cheese, couple of salads and you are set to sit by the river at night with the locals and tourists and enjoy a picnic or wander through the main square to listen to great music and check out the market for a wide variety of ocal produce or wares from morrocco.
We then headed to Les Ezies in the Dordogne region. We had a beautifully restored 2 bedroom farmhouse gite for a week complete with a huge grass field for petangue and a pool. It is by fqr the cheapest and the most comfortable way to stay in France. We easily settled into cooking all our meals and packing picnics for each of our day trips to the local caves, museums and castles. This is the region where the skeleton of Cro magnen man was discovered and also hundreds of original caveman drawings and artifacts dating back to Cro magnen times. The caves were large enough to travel 6 km by tiny train then to walk or go deep underground by boat. The more we saw, the more questions and fascination we had with the history of man and with the many inhabitants of the castles. Kids gravitated to the mammoth and giant rhino skeletons They are hooked on anything involving wildlife. The castles had many of the historical replicas of the weapons including great catapults, armour, etc.
Long driving day from Les Ezies to Avignon. We are in another gites. This time our one week stay is in a 500 year old former flour mill currently owned by a baron. Another place with so much character yet modern comforts too. We spent our first day travelling to the famous Roman aqueduct built in 54 AD called Pont De Gard. What an incredible engineering feat that still proudly stands over the Gardom river. It transported water to the Roman city of Nimes 30 miles away by dropping 1 inch every 350 feet.
No return ticket yet but still lots to do....... Bye for now Gail
Sunday, April 27, 2008
15 day Transatlantic cruise to Barcelona Spain...
We left Lima Peru and all the wonderful people, food, scenery,adventures (and reasonable prices for everything) and flew to Miami then bused to Fort lauderdale for 3 relaxing days on the beach before we boarded the Caribean Navigator of the Seas for a 15 day Transatlantic cruise to Barcelona Spain, It is one of the repositioning cruises where the ships move from the Caribean to Europe for the summer, It was not much more expensive than a flight and we thought we would see what it was like to be pampered yet see some other cities at our Ports of Call (Bermuda, Azorye Islands and Lisbon in Portugal, then Seville, Cadiz and Barcelona in Spain),
We had a few "cruise suitable" clothes sent to Miami, and sent our Inca trail woolies home but could not compete with the groups of cruisers who dressed to impress in a different set of clothing for every meal, event and even at the pool, It took Mike and I a few days to relax and enjoy not having to pack and figure out travel plans, meals, etc and to fit in with the majority of passengers (most over 65 who have cruised 10 or more times and expect to be constantly waited on), Luckily first impressions changed and we met some great people, We also had a tough time adjusting to going from being together as a family 24/7 to losing our kids to the full schedule of organized teen activities and seeing them at 1:00 am (teen curfew on the boat) and then again at 6:00 pm for dinner in the luxurious dining room (Justin most nights; Dylan 3 times and maybe for an occasional mini golf game or to shoot a few baskets on the bball court together: They have never stayed up until 1:00 before and would you let your kids be gone for 15 hours per day zith kids you don't know and whose parent you never do meet? If you zant to enjoy yourself on a vacation and not worry about your kids; a cruise is definitely the place to be, Once we realized that it was kind of nice having time without them, we made our own routine, We'd walk the track then go to the terrific gym every morning; read by the pool; play scrabble; and we enjoyed terrific music and shows every night without worrying about them, we loved it: We dragged them out as we passezd through the straights of Gibralter and clearly saw the Rock of Gibralter and Portugal on the left of the boat and Morroco; Africa on the other side---my first thought was that if Africa is that close; we should go to the harbour and see if we can get a boat across! Mike sensibly said----we have enough on our plate to see,,,maybe another trip:
Unfortunately in Barcelona the boat had a mechanical problem that they tried to fix in Lisbon, Beccause of the problem, the only stop in Europe was Lisbon before we finished the trip in Barcelona: We received compensation but people were very upset, The kids really bonded with about 10 other kids: They all had a long cry on the last night and did not want the trip to end: Lots of sports including rock cliimbing; ice skating in line skating; basketball; dodgeball; texas holdem; and wiii tourneys etc---hard to believe the variety of things to do on a ship:
The Euro is sure different than the value of an American dollar in S America, We spent more on public transit in Lisbon qnd Barcelona for short bus rides than it would cost to go across Ecuador! We were so spoilt there, Europe however is a very exciting place, Beautiful old castles, cathedrals squares in Lisbon then very Cosmopolitan Barcelona with the wide pedestrian sidewalk and the live statues dressed in very realistic costumes all along the street, We spent a full day in Barcelona then took the train to Perpignon France, What beautiful countyside along the Mediterranean, First breakfast,,,fresh strawberries; croissants, expresso! We pick up a car in Narbonne tomorrow then drive to Carcassone for a couple of days, It has been great to hear the kids speak french and for them to understand the conversations on the train and on the streets, although Dylan keeps switching from habit to spanich,
Bye for now
Gail (another new type of keyboard here so lots of errors:::sorry
We had a few "cruise suitable" clothes sent to Miami, and sent our Inca trail woolies home but could not compete with the groups of cruisers who dressed to impress in a different set of clothing for every meal, event and even at the pool, It took Mike and I a few days to relax and enjoy not having to pack and figure out travel plans, meals, etc and to fit in with the majority of passengers (most over 65 who have cruised 10 or more times and expect to be constantly waited on), Luckily first impressions changed and we met some great people, We also had a tough time adjusting to going from being together as a family 24/7 to losing our kids to the full schedule of organized teen activities and seeing them at 1:00 am (teen curfew on the boat) and then again at 6:00 pm for dinner in the luxurious dining room (Justin most nights; Dylan 3 times and maybe for an occasional mini golf game or to shoot a few baskets on the bball court together: They have never stayed up until 1:00 before and would you let your kids be gone for 15 hours per day zith kids you don't know and whose parent you never do meet? If you zant to enjoy yourself on a vacation and not worry about your kids; a cruise is definitely the place to be, Once we realized that it was kind of nice having time without them, we made our own routine, We'd walk the track then go to the terrific gym every morning; read by the pool; play scrabble; and we enjoyed terrific music and shows every night without worrying about them, we loved it: We dragged them out as we passezd through the straights of Gibralter and clearly saw the Rock of Gibralter and Portugal on the left of the boat and Morroco; Africa on the other side---my first thought was that if Africa is that close; we should go to the harbour and see if we can get a boat across! Mike sensibly said----we have enough on our plate to see,,,maybe another trip:
Unfortunately in Barcelona the boat had a mechanical problem that they tried to fix in Lisbon, Beccause of the problem, the only stop in Europe was Lisbon before we finished the trip in Barcelona: We received compensation but people were very upset, The kids really bonded with about 10 other kids: They all had a long cry on the last night and did not want the trip to end: Lots of sports including rock cliimbing; ice skating in line skating; basketball; dodgeball; texas holdem; and wiii tourneys etc---hard to believe the variety of things to do on a ship:
The Euro is sure different than the value of an American dollar in S America, We spent more on public transit in Lisbon qnd Barcelona for short bus rides than it would cost to go across Ecuador! We were so spoilt there, Europe however is a very exciting place, Beautiful old castles, cathedrals squares in Lisbon then very Cosmopolitan Barcelona with the wide pedestrian sidewalk and the live statues dressed in very realistic costumes all along the street, We spent a full day in Barcelona then took the train to Perpignon France, What beautiful countyside along the Mediterranean, First breakfast,,,fresh strawberries; croissants, expresso! We pick up a car in Narbonne tomorrow then drive to Carcassone for a couple of days, It has been great to hear the kids speak french and for them to understand the conversations on the train and on the streets, although Dylan keeps switching from habit to spanich,
Bye for now
Gail (another new type of keyboard here so lots of errors:::sorry
Thursday, April 10, 2008
We all finished the Inca Trail!
April 2-5 Inca trail hike to Matchu Pichu dept. early morning
We all finished the Inca Trail! The kids are proudly wearing the shirts I packed for the four day trek¨"I survived the Inca Trail" . It really was a tough 4 days which made the finish in Machu Picchu even more special.
We started the trek Apr. 2 with a 5 am pickup at our hostel in Cuzco. We hopped on a bus with 12 other people--quite intimidating being either the oldies (Mike and I) or the very young (Justin and Dylan). There were 2 - 18 yr. old elite rugby players from England, a 16 and 18 year old national champ swimmers from Wisconson and 4 other 25 year olds from Wales who looked fit too. Justin felt sick over the 2 hour bus ride--fear of being last! We started at km 82 of the trail. An elaborate registration and sign in at the trailhead and then we were off with our 2 guides and 21 porters. We each had a pack with our personal belongings but the porters had all the food, tents, sleeping bags etc.- 35 kg for each porter. We had a relatively easy first day. 10 km of undulating hills through 4 villages of mountain people and past some beautiful ruins. Because the porters basically run, our camp was all set up when we arrived including a cook tent and a dining tent with camp stools, along a long table. Tea, popcorn and grilled cheese sandwiches awaited us for a snack then a 4 course dinner somehow cooked on a two burner propane stove for dinner!
Day 2 started with a wake up call at 6 am with tea served at our tent then we started hiking at 7 am for a 15 km day including 1800 meters of elevation gain. We were all worried about how we would do. Dylan fell into a group with the couple from Wales and talked and snacked through his day. Justin was amazing and hiked all day with me and the 18 year old rugby guys. I loved the challenge of the steep inca stairs , the altitude ---4800 meters at the Dead Womens Pass yet the phenomenal mountain vistas. Our breathing was laboured all day and the heart was working at the max but we sure had a sense of accomplishment when we arrived at camp 2. The porters were lined up and they all clapped when each of us arrived at camp--the support was so genuine and welcomed. Most of us napped before dinner to get ready for day 3 and 15 km including 4000 steps of down hill after 3 more mountain passes. Another great dinner then early to bed with all our clothes on because of the high altitude of camp 2 and the minus 5 temperature.. I wore fleece jacket, pants, toque, gloves and wool socks and was just warm enough in the sleeping bag!
Day 3 was the toughest for Mike and I but the most fun for the kids. They took off with the rugby guys and did a longer detour to some elaborate ruins then ran down the 4000 stairs to camp 3. I was glad I wasn´t with them to think of the consequences of a misstep or a trip and they paid the price yesterday with seized up calf muscles. Mike and I had very sore knees half way down but still hobbled into camp proudly behind the kids. The entire trail today was the original inca trail and there were intact ruins every 2 or three hours to give us the excuse of a break! Everyone in our group made it to camp by 4 pm except 2 "dreamers " from Los Angeles who kept the second guide out past dark at 7:00 pm! Camp 3 is only 3 hours from Machu Picchu so any doubts we had about completing the trail were over- we knew we could all drag our butts for 3 hours after all the elevation we had climbed and descended. At camp 3 there was an old building with showers, and a little common room with old rock and roll blasting and cold drinks! Our whole group went for the showers then a couple of beer----coke for the kids! Lots of toasts to all the challenges we had overcome then more beers after dinner.
Day 4 was a 4 am wakeup, breakfast ---pancakes with a M and P written in caramel.... then 5 am at the last check point on the trail before a 2 hour climb up and down the inca staircases to Machu Picchu in drizzling rain. We were disappointed to reach the Sun Gate where we had hoped to see machu Picchu at sunrise to see only misty clouds and a mere glimpse of the terraces of Machu Picchu. However, when we arrived at Machu Picchu, the clouds quickly moved away as if to welcome us to this sacred site and we had 2 hours with our guide to take in all the important areas of the site. At one point the kids looked too tired and maybe bored with the guide talking so Mike offered them the chance to go down to the exit and buy a drink and wait for us. Justin was insulted and said "Ya right......I am going to go get a coke instead of learning about one of the wonders of the world"- Sometimes you just never know what is going through their heads and you can be pleasantly surprised ! A few insights--- all of the buildings face east and west to maximize the amt. of light and to keep in the heat in the cold nights. All buildings are built on levels so there are no shadows cast on the buildings. They had an agricultural side, a religious, worshipping area in the middle and an industrial side where things were built, designed and produced for the good of all. Most of Machu Picchu is original b ecause the spaniards never found this city.
We took the bus down about 50 switchbacks to the nei bouring town of Aguas Calientes had lunch with our group and said goodbye to all the wonderful porters and the guides then walked up to the hot springs to try to get rid of 4 days worth of stiff muscles. 4 pools of natural hotsprings with sandy bottoms. It was so nice hanging out with all the people in our group. It is amazing how you can be a group of 16 strangers then 4 days later be exchanging emails, invites to visit, etc. Justin and dylan were really disappointed that we had decided to stay one night in Aqua Calientes instead of heading back to Cuzco with the rest of the group. We celebrated our Inca Trail completion last night by enjoying a supper of french fries, nachos, chocolate cake with 2 scoops of ice cream each, non alcoholic strawberry daquiris (kids) and pisco sours--peruvian tequila drinks (mike and I) without a hint of guilt! I would recommend to any of you who have thought about this hike to do it. You really feel like you have accomplished something special and the scenery, history and the people make the journey feel like a once in a lifetime experience.
We slept 11 hours last night and feel refreshed yet we have continued to spoil ourselves with expresso, pizza, and more chocolate cake-----back to healthy peruvian fare tonite. I have not tried the peruvian special cuy (guinea pig) and have told the kids I am trying it tonite ---I will convince myself that they are not pets in peru. Dylan said if I order it, he will be a vegetarian from now on---- we will see. Back to Cuzco tonite on the train (4 hours) .
Bye for now Gail
April 2 - April 5 Aguas CalientesWirachocha Inn
April 6 day hike to waterfalls from Riupa Was Hotel
April 6 train evening Aguas calientes to CuzcoHotel –Ninos Hotel
April 7 Lan Peru Cuzco to Lima 11:35 am
April 7 and 8 Hostal Mamipanchita
We all finished the Inca Trail! The kids are proudly wearing the shirts I packed for the four day trek¨"I survived the Inca Trail" . It really was a tough 4 days which made the finish in Machu Picchu even more special.
We started the trek Apr. 2 with a 5 am pickup at our hostel in Cuzco. We hopped on a bus with 12 other people--quite intimidating being either the oldies (Mike and I) or the very young (Justin and Dylan). There were 2 - 18 yr. old elite rugby players from England, a 16 and 18 year old national champ swimmers from Wisconson and 4 other 25 year olds from Wales who looked fit too. Justin felt sick over the 2 hour bus ride--fear of being last! We started at km 82 of the trail. An elaborate registration and sign in at the trailhead and then we were off with our 2 guides and 21 porters. We each had a pack with our personal belongings but the porters had all the food, tents, sleeping bags etc.- 35 kg for each porter. We had a relatively easy first day. 10 km of undulating hills through 4 villages of mountain people and past some beautiful ruins. Because the porters basically run, our camp was all set up when we arrived including a cook tent and a dining tent with camp stools, along a long table. Tea, popcorn and grilled cheese sandwiches awaited us for a snack then a 4 course dinner somehow cooked on a two burner propane stove for dinner!
Day 2 started with a wake up call at 6 am with tea served at our tent then we started hiking at 7 am for a 15 km day including 1800 meters of elevation gain. We were all worried about how we would do. Dylan fell into a group with the couple from Wales and talked and snacked through his day. Justin was amazing and hiked all day with me and the 18 year old rugby guys. I loved the challenge of the steep inca stairs , the altitude ---4800 meters at the Dead Womens Pass yet the phenomenal mountain vistas. Our breathing was laboured all day and the heart was working at the max but we sure had a sense of accomplishment when we arrived at camp 2. The porters were lined up and they all clapped when each of us arrived at camp--the support was so genuine and welcomed. Most of us napped before dinner to get ready for day 3 and 15 km including 4000 steps of down hill after 3 more mountain passes. Another great dinner then early to bed with all our clothes on because of the high altitude of camp 2 and the minus 5 temperature.. I wore fleece jacket, pants, toque, gloves and wool socks and was just warm enough in the sleeping bag!
Day 3 was the toughest for Mike and I but the most fun for the kids. They took off with the rugby guys and did a longer detour to some elaborate ruins then ran down the 4000 stairs to camp 3. I was glad I wasn´t with them to think of the consequences of a misstep or a trip and they paid the price yesterday with seized up calf muscles. Mike and I had very sore knees half way down but still hobbled into camp proudly behind the kids. The entire trail today was the original inca trail and there were intact ruins every 2 or three hours to give us the excuse of a break! Everyone in our group made it to camp by 4 pm except 2 "dreamers " from Los Angeles who kept the second guide out past dark at 7:00 pm! Camp 3 is only 3 hours from Machu Picchu so any doubts we had about completing the trail were over- we knew we could all drag our butts for 3 hours after all the elevation we had climbed and descended. At camp 3 there was an old building with showers, and a little common room with old rock and roll blasting and cold drinks! Our whole group went for the showers then a couple of beer----coke for the kids! Lots of toasts to all the challenges we had overcome then more beers after dinner.
Day 4 was a 4 am wakeup, breakfast ---pancakes with a M and P written in caramel.... then 5 am at the last check point on the trail before a 2 hour climb up and down the inca staircases to Machu Picchu in drizzling rain. We were disappointed to reach the Sun Gate where we had hoped to see machu Picchu at sunrise to see only misty clouds and a mere glimpse of the terraces of Machu Picchu. However, when we arrived at Machu Picchu, the clouds quickly moved away as if to welcome us to this sacred site and we had 2 hours with our guide to take in all the important areas of the site. At one point the kids looked too tired and maybe bored with the guide talking so Mike offered them the chance to go down to the exit and buy a drink and wait for us. Justin was insulted and said "Ya right......I am going to go get a coke instead of learning about one of the wonders of the world"- Sometimes you just never know what is going through their heads and you can be pleasantly surprised ! A few insights--- all of the buildings face east and west to maximize the amt. of light and to keep in the heat in the cold nights. All buildings are built on levels so there are no shadows cast on the buildings. They had an agricultural side, a religious, worshipping area in the middle and an industrial side where things were built, designed and produced for the good of all. Most of Machu Picchu is original b ecause the spaniards never found this city.
We took the bus down about 50 switchbacks to the nei bouring town of Aguas Calientes had lunch with our group and said goodbye to all the wonderful porters and the guides then walked up to the hot springs to try to get rid of 4 days worth of stiff muscles. 4 pools of natural hotsprings with sandy bottoms. It was so nice hanging out with all the people in our group. It is amazing how you can be a group of 16 strangers then 4 days later be exchanging emails, invites to visit, etc. Justin and dylan were really disappointed that we had decided to stay one night in Aqua Calientes instead of heading back to Cuzco with the rest of the group. We celebrated our Inca Trail completion last night by enjoying a supper of french fries, nachos, chocolate cake with 2 scoops of ice cream each, non alcoholic strawberry daquiris (kids) and pisco sours--peruvian tequila drinks (mike and I) without a hint of guilt! I would recommend to any of you who have thought about this hike to do it. You really feel like you have accomplished something special and the scenery, history and the people make the journey feel like a once in a lifetime experience.
We slept 11 hours last night and feel refreshed yet we have continued to spoil ourselves with expresso, pizza, and more chocolate cake-----back to healthy peruvian fare tonite. I have not tried the peruvian special cuy (guinea pig) and have told the kids I am trying it tonite ---I will convince myself that they are not pets in peru. Dylan said if I order it, he will be a vegetarian from now on---- we will see. Back to Cuzco tonite on the train (4 hours) .
Bye for now Gail
April 2 - April 5 Aguas CalientesWirachocha Inn
April 6 day hike to waterfalls from Riupa Was Hotel
April 6 train evening Aguas calientes to CuzcoHotel –Ninos Hotel
April 7 Lan Peru Cuzco to Lima 11:35 am
April 7 and 8 Hostal Mamipanchita
Tuesday, April 1, 2008
A week in Cuzco...
March 27 Arequipa to Cuzco
April 1st, 2008
A week in Cuzco, the center of the Inca Empire! We did a city tour and enjoyed the spanish architecture but were horrified at the destroyed Inca treasures and beautiful buildings taken apart and used for spanish foundations after the spaniards took over the city. When we toured the Sacred Valley , we hiked through the most intact inca city at ollan taytambo.It was one of the only places where the Spanish conquistadors lost a major battle. The 7 sections of the city are high on the mountain with the terraces extending down more than 1 km. To see 6 ton rocks precisely placed to form a wall still intact with no room to even insert a piece of paper between them proudly standing over the valley since 1536 was amazing, even to 2 kids who said they preferred to buy a coke and watch the market rather than hike..... Most of the large polishable rocks were transported from 6 km away. Early civilizations appear very simple at first glance but very sophisticated in other ways. Every Inca house sleeps 8 and has two openings. Each is exactly the same dimension and formed at 24 degrees to allow max. light during the summer solstice and then the winter solstics. A compass in each house will show this fact. We also had a day whitewater rafting. It was the most exciting whitewater we have experienced. Class 3 and4 in glacial water. The guide instilled a strong work ethic during all the challenging sections "paddle like hell and don´t stop unless I say " and we all managed to stay in the boat! At the end of the 4 hour adventure we finished at a rustic lodge on the river with a wood stove heated sauna and a river rock hollow filled with hot water for a jacuzzi ----ahhhh. The kids have mastered enough spanish that we can give them a few soles and tell them to go for lunch or to the internet and we have a couple hours to explore. Dylan pays all the bills, orders our meals and even communicates with taxi drivers now. It is great. Today they are off by themselves (we met the guide first) on a 4 hour historical tour on horseback. A bit uneasy that they may not get transport back to the hostel but it is good for them and mike and i need the time to organize for the inca trail tomorrow. We have heard that a canadian family just finished the 4 day trail with the 7 year old leading each day. Justin says he is looking forward to it now ---says the negative comments we had to put up with were just because he did not know much about it---yay right. We are excited yet nervous. We have been hiking a 400 step steep street before breakfast 3 times each morn ing and altitud e is not an issue any more so ....just go for it.
Gail
April 1st, 2008
A week in Cuzco, the center of the Inca Empire! We did a city tour and enjoyed the spanish architecture but were horrified at the destroyed Inca treasures and beautiful buildings taken apart and used for spanish foundations after the spaniards took over the city. When we toured the Sacred Valley , we hiked through the most intact inca city at ollan taytambo.It was one of the only places where the Spanish conquistadors lost a major battle. The 7 sections of the city are high on the mountain with the terraces extending down more than 1 km. To see 6 ton rocks precisely placed to form a wall still intact with no room to even insert a piece of paper between them proudly standing over the valley since 1536 was amazing, even to 2 kids who said they preferred to buy a coke and watch the market rather than hike..... Most of the large polishable rocks were transported from 6 km away. Early civilizations appear very simple at first glance but very sophisticated in other ways. Every Inca house sleeps 8 and has two openings. Each is exactly the same dimension and formed at 24 degrees to allow max. light during the summer solstice and then the winter solstics. A compass in each house will show this fact. We also had a day whitewater rafting. It was the most exciting whitewater we have experienced. Class 3 and4 in glacial water. The guide instilled a strong work ethic during all the challenging sections "paddle like hell and don´t stop unless I say " and we all managed to stay in the boat! At the end of the 4 hour adventure we finished at a rustic lodge on the river with a wood stove heated sauna and a river rock hollow filled with hot water for a jacuzzi ----ahhhh. The kids have mastered enough spanish that we can give them a few soles and tell them to go for lunch or to the internet and we have a couple hours to explore. Dylan pays all the bills, orders our meals and even communicates with taxi drivers now. It is great. Today they are off by themselves (we met the guide first) on a 4 hour historical tour on horseback. A bit uneasy that they may not get transport back to the hostel but it is good for them and mike and i need the time to organize for the inca trail tomorrow. We have heard that a canadian family just finished the 4 day trail with the 7 year old leading each day. Justin says he is looking forward to it now ---says the negative comments we had to put up with were just because he did not know much about it---yay right. We are excited yet nervous. We have been hiking a 400 step steep street before breakfast 3 times each morn ing and altitud e is not an issue any more so ....just go for it.
Gail
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