We left Lima Peru and all the wonderful people, food, scenery,adventures (and reasonable prices for everything) and flew to Miami then bused to Fort lauderdale for 3 relaxing days on the beach before we boarded the Caribean Navigator of the Seas for a 15 day Transatlantic cruise to Barcelona Spain, It is one of the repositioning cruises where the ships move from the Caribean to Europe for the summer, It was not much more expensive than a flight and we thought we would see what it was like to be pampered yet see some other cities at our Ports of Call (Bermuda, Azorye Islands and Lisbon in Portugal, then Seville, Cadiz and Barcelona in Spain),
We had a few "cruise suitable" clothes sent to Miami, and sent our Inca trail woolies home but could not compete with the groups of cruisers who dressed to impress in a different set of clothing for every meal, event and even at the pool, It took Mike and I a few days to relax and enjoy not having to pack and figure out travel plans, meals, etc and to fit in with the majority of passengers (most over 65 who have cruised 10 or more times and expect to be constantly waited on), Luckily first impressions changed and we met some great people, We also had a tough time adjusting to going from being together as a family 24/7 to losing our kids to the full schedule of organized teen activities and seeing them at 1:00 am (teen curfew on the boat) and then again at 6:00 pm for dinner in the luxurious dining room (Justin most nights; Dylan 3 times and maybe for an occasional mini golf game or to shoot a few baskets on the bball court together: They have never stayed up until 1:00 before and would you let your kids be gone for 15 hours per day zith kids you don't know and whose parent you never do meet? If you zant to enjoy yourself on a vacation and not worry about your kids; a cruise is definitely the place to be, Once we realized that it was kind of nice having time without them, we made our own routine, We'd walk the track then go to the terrific gym every morning; read by the pool; play scrabble; and we enjoyed terrific music and shows every night without worrying about them, we loved it: We dragged them out as we passezd through the straights of Gibralter and clearly saw the Rock of Gibralter and Portugal on the left of the boat and Morroco; Africa on the other side---my first thought was that if Africa is that close; we should go to the harbour and see if we can get a boat across! Mike sensibly said----we have enough on our plate to see,,,maybe another trip:
Unfortunately in Barcelona the boat had a mechanical problem that they tried to fix in Lisbon, Beccause of the problem, the only stop in Europe was Lisbon before we finished the trip in Barcelona: We received compensation but people were very upset, The kids really bonded with about 10 other kids: They all had a long cry on the last night and did not want the trip to end: Lots of sports including rock cliimbing; ice skating in line skating; basketball; dodgeball; texas holdem; and wiii tourneys etc---hard to believe the variety of things to do on a ship:
The Euro is sure different than the value of an American dollar in S America, We spent more on public transit in Lisbon qnd Barcelona for short bus rides than it would cost to go across Ecuador! We were so spoilt there, Europe however is a very exciting place, Beautiful old castles, cathedrals squares in Lisbon then very Cosmopolitan Barcelona with the wide pedestrian sidewalk and the live statues dressed in very realistic costumes all along the street, We spent a full day in Barcelona then took the train to Perpignon France, What beautiful countyside along the Mediterranean, First breakfast,,,fresh strawberries; croissants, expresso! We pick up a car in Narbonne tomorrow then drive to Carcassone for a couple of days, It has been great to hear the kids speak french and for them to understand the conversations on the train and on the streets, although Dylan keeps switching from habit to spanich,
Bye for now
Gail (another new type of keyboard here so lots of errors:::sorry
Sunday, April 27, 2008
Thursday, April 10, 2008
We all finished the Inca Trail!
April 2-5 Inca trail hike to Matchu Pichu dept. early morning
We all finished the Inca Trail! The kids are proudly wearing the shirts I packed for the four day trek¨"I survived the Inca Trail" . It really was a tough 4 days which made the finish in Machu Picchu even more special.
We started the trek Apr. 2 with a 5 am pickup at our hostel in Cuzco. We hopped on a bus with 12 other people--quite intimidating being either the oldies (Mike and I) or the very young (Justin and Dylan). There were 2 - 18 yr. old elite rugby players from England, a 16 and 18 year old national champ swimmers from Wisconson and 4 other 25 year olds from Wales who looked fit too. Justin felt sick over the 2 hour bus ride--fear of being last! We started at km 82 of the trail. An elaborate registration and sign in at the trailhead and then we were off with our 2 guides and 21 porters. We each had a pack with our personal belongings but the porters had all the food, tents, sleeping bags etc.- 35 kg for each porter. We had a relatively easy first day. 10 km of undulating hills through 4 villages of mountain people and past some beautiful ruins. Because the porters basically run, our camp was all set up when we arrived including a cook tent and a dining tent with camp stools, along a long table. Tea, popcorn and grilled cheese sandwiches awaited us for a snack then a 4 course dinner somehow cooked on a two burner propane stove for dinner!
Day 2 started with a wake up call at 6 am with tea served at our tent then we started hiking at 7 am for a 15 km day including 1800 meters of elevation gain. We were all worried about how we would do. Dylan fell into a group with the couple from Wales and talked and snacked through his day. Justin was amazing and hiked all day with me and the 18 year old rugby guys. I loved the challenge of the steep inca stairs , the altitude ---4800 meters at the Dead Womens Pass yet the phenomenal mountain vistas. Our breathing was laboured all day and the heart was working at the max but we sure had a sense of accomplishment when we arrived at camp 2. The porters were lined up and they all clapped when each of us arrived at camp--the support was so genuine and welcomed. Most of us napped before dinner to get ready for day 3 and 15 km including 4000 steps of down hill after 3 more mountain passes. Another great dinner then early to bed with all our clothes on because of the high altitude of camp 2 and the minus 5 temperature.. I wore fleece jacket, pants, toque, gloves and wool socks and was just warm enough in the sleeping bag!
Day 3 was the toughest for Mike and I but the most fun for the kids. They took off with the rugby guys and did a longer detour to some elaborate ruins then ran down the 4000 stairs to camp 3. I was glad I wasn´t with them to think of the consequences of a misstep or a trip and they paid the price yesterday with seized up calf muscles. Mike and I had very sore knees half way down but still hobbled into camp proudly behind the kids. The entire trail today was the original inca trail and there were intact ruins every 2 or three hours to give us the excuse of a break! Everyone in our group made it to camp by 4 pm except 2 "dreamers " from Los Angeles who kept the second guide out past dark at 7:00 pm! Camp 3 is only 3 hours from Machu Picchu so any doubts we had about completing the trail were over- we knew we could all drag our butts for 3 hours after all the elevation we had climbed and descended. At camp 3 there was an old building with showers, and a little common room with old rock and roll blasting and cold drinks! Our whole group went for the showers then a couple of beer----coke for the kids! Lots of toasts to all the challenges we had overcome then more beers after dinner.
Day 4 was a 4 am wakeup, breakfast ---pancakes with a M and P written in caramel.... then 5 am at the last check point on the trail before a 2 hour climb up and down the inca staircases to Machu Picchu in drizzling rain. We were disappointed to reach the Sun Gate where we had hoped to see machu Picchu at sunrise to see only misty clouds and a mere glimpse of the terraces of Machu Picchu. However, when we arrived at Machu Picchu, the clouds quickly moved away as if to welcome us to this sacred site and we had 2 hours with our guide to take in all the important areas of the site. At one point the kids looked too tired and maybe bored with the guide talking so Mike offered them the chance to go down to the exit and buy a drink and wait for us. Justin was insulted and said "Ya right......I am going to go get a coke instead of learning about one of the wonders of the world"- Sometimes you just never know what is going through their heads and you can be pleasantly surprised ! A few insights--- all of the buildings face east and west to maximize the amt. of light and to keep in the heat in the cold nights. All buildings are built on levels so there are no shadows cast on the buildings. They had an agricultural side, a religious, worshipping area in the middle and an industrial side where things were built, designed and produced for the good of all. Most of Machu Picchu is original b ecause the spaniards never found this city.
We took the bus down about 50 switchbacks to the nei bouring town of Aguas Calientes had lunch with our group and said goodbye to all the wonderful porters and the guides then walked up to the hot springs to try to get rid of 4 days worth of stiff muscles. 4 pools of natural hotsprings with sandy bottoms. It was so nice hanging out with all the people in our group. It is amazing how you can be a group of 16 strangers then 4 days later be exchanging emails, invites to visit, etc. Justin and dylan were really disappointed that we had decided to stay one night in Aqua Calientes instead of heading back to Cuzco with the rest of the group. We celebrated our Inca Trail completion last night by enjoying a supper of french fries, nachos, chocolate cake with 2 scoops of ice cream each, non alcoholic strawberry daquiris (kids) and pisco sours--peruvian tequila drinks (mike and I) without a hint of guilt! I would recommend to any of you who have thought about this hike to do it. You really feel like you have accomplished something special and the scenery, history and the people make the journey feel like a once in a lifetime experience.
We slept 11 hours last night and feel refreshed yet we have continued to spoil ourselves with expresso, pizza, and more chocolate cake-----back to healthy peruvian fare tonite. I have not tried the peruvian special cuy (guinea pig) and have told the kids I am trying it tonite ---I will convince myself that they are not pets in peru. Dylan said if I order it, he will be a vegetarian from now on---- we will see. Back to Cuzco tonite on the train (4 hours) .
Bye for now Gail
April 2 - April 5 Aguas CalientesWirachocha Inn
April 6 day hike to waterfalls from Riupa Was Hotel
April 6 train evening Aguas calientes to CuzcoHotel –Ninos Hotel
April 7 Lan Peru Cuzco to Lima 11:35 am
April 7 and 8 Hostal Mamipanchita
We all finished the Inca Trail! The kids are proudly wearing the shirts I packed for the four day trek¨"I survived the Inca Trail" . It really was a tough 4 days which made the finish in Machu Picchu even more special.
We started the trek Apr. 2 with a 5 am pickup at our hostel in Cuzco. We hopped on a bus with 12 other people--quite intimidating being either the oldies (Mike and I) or the very young (Justin and Dylan). There were 2 - 18 yr. old elite rugby players from England, a 16 and 18 year old national champ swimmers from Wisconson and 4 other 25 year olds from Wales who looked fit too. Justin felt sick over the 2 hour bus ride--fear of being last! We started at km 82 of the trail. An elaborate registration and sign in at the trailhead and then we were off with our 2 guides and 21 porters. We each had a pack with our personal belongings but the porters had all the food, tents, sleeping bags etc.- 35 kg for each porter. We had a relatively easy first day. 10 km of undulating hills through 4 villages of mountain people and past some beautiful ruins. Because the porters basically run, our camp was all set up when we arrived including a cook tent and a dining tent with camp stools, along a long table. Tea, popcorn and grilled cheese sandwiches awaited us for a snack then a 4 course dinner somehow cooked on a two burner propane stove for dinner!
Day 2 started with a wake up call at 6 am with tea served at our tent then we started hiking at 7 am for a 15 km day including 1800 meters of elevation gain. We were all worried about how we would do. Dylan fell into a group with the couple from Wales and talked and snacked through his day. Justin was amazing and hiked all day with me and the 18 year old rugby guys. I loved the challenge of the steep inca stairs , the altitude ---4800 meters at the Dead Womens Pass yet the phenomenal mountain vistas. Our breathing was laboured all day and the heart was working at the max but we sure had a sense of accomplishment when we arrived at camp 2. The porters were lined up and they all clapped when each of us arrived at camp--the support was so genuine and welcomed. Most of us napped before dinner to get ready for day 3 and 15 km including 4000 steps of down hill after 3 more mountain passes. Another great dinner then early to bed with all our clothes on because of the high altitude of camp 2 and the minus 5 temperature.. I wore fleece jacket, pants, toque, gloves and wool socks and was just warm enough in the sleeping bag!
Day 3 was the toughest for Mike and I but the most fun for the kids. They took off with the rugby guys and did a longer detour to some elaborate ruins then ran down the 4000 stairs to camp 3. I was glad I wasn´t with them to think of the consequences of a misstep or a trip and they paid the price yesterday with seized up calf muscles. Mike and I had very sore knees half way down but still hobbled into camp proudly behind the kids. The entire trail today was the original inca trail and there were intact ruins every 2 or three hours to give us the excuse of a break! Everyone in our group made it to camp by 4 pm except 2 "dreamers " from Los Angeles who kept the second guide out past dark at 7:00 pm! Camp 3 is only 3 hours from Machu Picchu so any doubts we had about completing the trail were over- we knew we could all drag our butts for 3 hours after all the elevation we had climbed and descended. At camp 3 there was an old building with showers, and a little common room with old rock and roll blasting and cold drinks! Our whole group went for the showers then a couple of beer----coke for the kids! Lots of toasts to all the challenges we had overcome then more beers after dinner.
Day 4 was a 4 am wakeup, breakfast ---pancakes with a M and P written in caramel.... then 5 am at the last check point on the trail before a 2 hour climb up and down the inca staircases to Machu Picchu in drizzling rain. We were disappointed to reach the Sun Gate where we had hoped to see machu Picchu at sunrise to see only misty clouds and a mere glimpse of the terraces of Machu Picchu. However, when we arrived at Machu Picchu, the clouds quickly moved away as if to welcome us to this sacred site and we had 2 hours with our guide to take in all the important areas of the site. At one point the kids looked too tired and maybe bored with the guide talking so Mike offered them the chance to go down to the exit and buy a drink and wait for us. Justin was insulted and said "Ya right......I am going to go get a coke instead of learning about one of the wonders of the world"- Sometimes you just never know what is going through their heads and you can be pleasantly surprised ! A few insights--- all of the buildings face east and west to maximize the amt. of light and to keep in the heat in the cold nights. All buildings are built on levels so there are no shadows cast on the buildings. They had an agricultural side, a religious, worshipping area in the middle and an industrial side where things were built, designed and produced for the good of all. Most of Machu Picchu is original b ecause the spaniards never found this city.
We took the bus down about 50 switchbacks to the nei bouring town of Aguas Calientes had lunch with our group and said goodbye to all the wonderful porters and the guides then walked up to the hot springs to try to get rid of 4 days worth of stiff muscles. 4 pools of natural hotsprings with sandy bottoms. It was so nice hanging out with all the people in our group. It is amazing how you can be a group of 16 strangers then 4 days later be exchanging emails, invites to visit, etc. Justin and dylan were really disappointed that we had decided to stay one night in Aqua Calientes instead of heading back to Cuzco with the rest of the group. We celebrated our Inca Trail completion last night by enjoying a supper of french fries, nachos, chocolate cake with 2 scoops of ice cream each, non alcoholic strawberry daquiris (kids) and pisco sours--peruvian tequila drinks (mike and I) without a hint of guilt! I would recommend to any of you who have thought about this hike to do it. You really feel like you have accomplished something special and the scenery, history and the people make the journey feel like a once in a lifetime experience.
We slept 11 hours last night and feel refreshed yet we have continued to spoil ourselves with expresso, pizza, and more chocolate cake-----back to healthy peruvian fare tonite. I have not tried the peruvian special cuy (guinea pig) and have told the kids I am trying it tonite ---I will convince myself that they are not pets in peru. Dylan said if I order it, he will be a vegetarian from now on---- we will see. Back to Cuzco tonite on the train (4 hours) .
Bye for now Gail
April 2 - April 5 Aguas CalientesWirachocha Inn
April 6 day hike to waterfalls from Riupa Was Hotel
April 6 train evening Aguas calientes to CuzcoHotel –Ninos Hotel
April 7 Lan Peru Cuzco to Lima 11:35 am
April 7 and 8 Hostal Mamipanchita
Tuesday, April 1, 2008
A week in Cuzco...
March 27 Arequipa to Cuzco
April 1st, 2008
A week in Cuzco, the center of the Inca Empire! We did a city tour and enjoyed the spanish architecture but were horrified at the destroyed Inca treasures and beautiful buildings taken apart and used for spanish foundations after the spaniards took over the city. When we toured the Sacred Valley , we hiked through the most intact inca city at ollan taytambo.It was one of the only places where the Spanish conquistadors lost a major battle. The 7 sections of the city are high on the mountain with the terraces extending down more than 1 km. To see 6 ton rocks precisely placed to form a wall still intact with no room to even insert a piece of paper between them proudly standing over the valley since 1536 was amazing, even to 2 kids who said they preferred to buy a coke and watch the market rather than hike..... Most of the large polishable rocks were transported from 6 km away. Early civilizations appear very simple at first glance but very sophisticated in other ways. Every Inca house sleeps 8 and has two openings. Each is exactly the same dimension and formed at 24 degrees to allow max. light during the summer solstice and then the winter solstics. A compass in each house will show this fact. We also had a day whitewater rafting. It was the most exciting whitewater we have experienced. Class 3 and4 in glacial water. The guide instilled a strong work ethic during all the challenging sections "paddle like hell and don´t stop unless I say " and we all managed to stay in the boat! At the end of the 4 hour adventure we finished at a rustic lodge on the river with a wood stove heated sauna and a river rock hollow filled with hot water for a jacuzzi ----ahhhh. The kids have mastered enough spanish that we can give them a few soles and tell them to go for lunch or to the internet and we have a couple hours to explore. Dylan pays all the bills, orders our meals and even communicates with taxi drivers now. It is great. Today they are off by themselves (we met the guide first) on a 4 hour historical tour on horseback. A bit uneasy that they may not get transport back to the hostel but it is good for them and mike and i need the time to organize for the inca trail tomorrow. We have heard that a canadian family just finished the 4 day trail with the 7 year old leading each day. Justin says he is looking forward to it now ---says the negative comments we had to put up with were just because he did not know much about it---yay right. We are excited yet nervous. We have been hiking a 400 step steep street before breakfast 3 times each morn ing and altitud e is not an issue any more so ....just go for it.
Gail
April 1st, 2008
A week in Cuzco, the center of the Inca Empire! We did a city tour and enjoyed the spanish architecture but were horrified at the destroyed Inca treasures and beautiful buildings taken apart and used for spanish foundations after the spaniards took over the city. When we toured the Sacred Valley , we hiked through the most intact inca city at ollan taytambo.It was one of the only places where the Spanish conquistadors lost a major battle. The 7 sections of the city are high on the mountain with the terraces extending down more than 1 km. To see 6 ton rocks precisely placed to form a wall still intact with no room to even insert a piece of paper between them proudly standing over the valley since 1536 was amazing, even to 2 kids who said they preferred to buy a coke and watch the market rather than hike..... Most of the large polishable rocks were transported from 6 km away. Early civilizations appear very simple at first glance but very sophisticated in other ways. Every Inca house sleeps 8 and has two openings. Each is exactly the same dimension and formed at 24 degrees to allow max. light during the summer solstice and then the winter solstics. A compass in each house will show this fact. We also had a day whitewater rafting. It was the most exciting whitewater we have experienced. Class 3 and4 in glacial water. The guide instilled a strong work ethic during all the challenging sections "paddle like hell and don´t stop unless I say " and we all managed to stay in the boat! At the end of the 4 hour adventure we finished at a rustic lodge on the river with a wood stove heated sauna and a river rock hollow filled with hot water for a jacuzzi ----ahhhh. The kids have mastered enough spanish that we can give them a few soles and tell them to go for lunch or to the internet and we have a couple hours to explore. Dylan pays all the bills, orders our meals and even communicates with taxi drivers now. It is great. Today they are off by themselves (we met the guide first) on a 4 hour historical tour on horseback. A bit uneasy that they may not get transport back to the hostel but it is good for them and mike and i need the time to organize for the inca trail tomorrow. We have heard that a canadian family just finished the 4 day trail with the 7 year old leading each day. Justin says he is looking forward to it now ---says the negative comments we had to put up with were just because he did not know much about it---yay right. We are excited yet nervous. We have been hiking a 400 step steep street before breakfast 3 times each morn ing and altitud e is not an issue any more so ....just go for it.
Gail
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